Secret Spain: Beat The Crowds & Head To Terra Alta
Sitting down with Jon Lerner of Tailored Tours Barcelona, we’re discovering the best of what this secret Catalonian region has to offer.
Photography @adri_abb
A source of intrigue and inspiration for over a millennium, Terra Alta — a bucolic province tucked into the southwest corner of Catalonia — is today leading a quiet rural revival. One of the people championing the region is Jon Lerner, founder of the award-winning travel design company Tailored Tours Barcelona, who, serendipitously, moved to this expansive region right before the pandemic hit.
“Terra Alta had been on my radar throughout the 12 years I was living in Barcelona. The name itself — ‘high lands’ in English — held a mysterious allure,” Jon told us over video chat, the early summer sun streaming in from the window.
“So over a long weekend in the fall of 2019, my girlfriend and I finally went to see what this secret region was all about. Before the weekend was over, we knew this was our next move.”
Just two hours from Barcelona, Terra Alta is easily accessible while remaining romantically remote — the ideal retreat after a few days in busy-Barcelona, one that may leave you lingering longer than you originally planned. In our interview, Jon lets us in on why this largely undiscovered region should be hot on your radar this summer.
Photography @ryesteroyo
I had honestly never heard of Terra Alta before speaking with you. Can you help situate those who don’t know it?
“Of course. Honestly, not even all Catalans can point to Terra Alta on a map! The region is small, literally the final frontier of Catalonia. It sits at the crossroads of 3 ancient Kingdoms — Catalonia, Valencia and Aragón. The Med is 30 minutes east and Barcelona just over 2 hours to the north.”
That’s not too far from the city!
“Not at all. Today the region is easily accessible yet remains romantically remote. If you ask anyone from Barcelona where they vacation, nearly all will tell you they go north - to the Pyrenees, the Costa Brava, France. And that’s a big part of what makes Terra Alta so special - its sparse population, incredible authenticity, pristine nature, open spaces - driving through certain parts reminds me of the American West. It’s spectacularly beautiful.”
So how has it managed to stay off the radar for so long?
“In short, it missed out on Spain’s tourism boom of the 1960s and 70s. Costa Brava was the holiday mecca, and resulted in a major concentration of attention and development along the coast, which we still see today. And rightfully so — it’s pure beauty. It’s only in the last 5-10 years — and more so now post Covid — that people have realized that there are some really incredible destinations south of Barcelona and a way of life that in varying degrees hasn't been disturbed in 100 years.
It’s a silly anecdote but one that I love to tell — in our village, announcements are made every morning via public loud speakers. I was so happy the first time I heard it! On a more serious note, though, for a lot of Spaniards the majority of the 20th century was pretty brutal. Terra Alta in particular was ravaged by the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s, and 20 years later by the great freeze in 1956, which left the region on its knees. There’s a wonderful book by Sergio del Molino called La España Vacía (Empty Spain) which brilliantly discusses this exodus pattern as it occurred all over Spain. But here they were able to pivot.”
How so?
“Several reasons. The region has a fascinating history, and its cultural and artistic roots run very deep. The Knights Templar were here during the Middle Ages and left a spectacular architectural heritage. Pablo Picasso spent a good portion of his youth here — it was in Horta de Sant Joan, where I live, that Picasso was invited by his art school friend to spend the summer when both boys were just 15 years old. Picasso returned 10 years later, from Paris, and was so inspired by the geometry of Horta’s architecture that he began creating his first Cubist works.
He said later in life, ‘Everything I know I learned in Horta.’ The village remained dear to him his entire life. So there's a wonderfully rich history across the arts, architecture and culture. On top of that, and what I’m so excited to share with people, is the handful of incredibly talented small label artisan producers who are putting Terra Alta on the map — as well as and wines lists in Barcelona, throughout Spain and even in the States. The wine scene here has really just started to explode, as has the recognition of some of the highest quality extra virgin olive oil in the country. Expats have slowly moved in, and developers have taken note. It’s a really exciting time to be here.”
Pablo Picasso — The Reservoir, Horta de Ebro Horta de Sant Joan. Summer 1909. Museum of Modern Art.
Photography Bàrbara Forés Winery
Who are a few of your favorite artisan producers right now?
“Well, there are a lot, and so many with really compelling stories behind them. But, one of my favorites is the Bàrbara Forés winery run by Carmen and Pili Sanmartín — a 5th and 6th generation mother-daughter wine-making-duo running what I think is the region’s most impressive cellar. They and a few others are single handedly responsible for reviving morenillo — an ancient grape native to Terra Alta which not long ago was nearly extinct because of its low yield. Forty or 50 years ago, and especially under the Franco regime, quality took back seat to quantity and the morenillo grape was basically abandoned. It’s unlike anything else in Terra Alta, which is dominated by strong red grenache, and it drinks almost like a pinot. I can go on for a while here,” he chuckled. “But, in short, I think the fact that morenillo’s limited production is no longer a hindrance but instead driving renewed interest. And I think that idea mirrors the larger regional revival under way.
There’s also Toni Beltrán of Identitat Olive Oil. Toni returned to Horta after getting his PhD in Chemistry and living for many years in Barcelona. He produces the three major olive varieties in the region — empeltre, arbequina and picual, and was recently awarded best oil in southern Catalonia. The care Toni gives his trees, some of them 2,000 years old, is unbelievable. He has a 12th century olive mill in his house. His story is wonderful and he’s a true steward of the land.”
Photography featured on Tailored Tours Barcelona Instagram by Jon Lerner
So, do you think that post covid people will gravitate towards rural regions like Terra Alta now?
“Without a doubt. I think the allure of Europe’s great cities — Venice, Paris, Amsterdam, Barcelona — will always remain. But I do think, and have already seen in the last few weeks as travel re-opens, that more and more people are interested in combining urban and rural stays.
And for nature lovers, the region is a page out of paradise. Terra Alta is traversed by Els Ports Nature Reserve that boasts 150,000 acres of craggy limestone folds, gushing rivers, turquoise swimming holes and spectacular canyons. There are also some great walks to do, like the El Mas de Tafetans, an easy 40-minute stroll from Horta de Sant Joan, set along backcountry roads of thyme, rosemary and lavender.”
What’s the most important thing you want people to know about this region?
“What I couldn’t have expected before moving to the countryside was the level of craft and creativity I’d find here. And that’s something I’m keen on sharing — bridging the pioneers of the city with those of the countryside and sharing the narrative of the extraordinary people that make the top wines, oils, lamb, beef and more that make their way to our favorite city restaurants.”
Photography @roberto_bondia
Photography Identitat Olive Oil
Photography @slowmatarranya
You know, Spain is one of the most popular destinations in the world, yet, there are still places like Terra Alta that are relatively unknown. Do you think one day the region will be a household name?
“That's a very interesting question. So many destinations in Spain have amazing food & wine — multi-layered cultural histories and wonderful nature. But what makes Terra Alta so exciting, in my opinion, is the timing of where the region is right now — the small-scale nature of its artisans and the direct access to all its diverse talent. For so long it was treated as a fringe province, basically forgotten, and as a result, didn't value itself or its potential. Now it feels like there's a common awakening taking place — that the region has been quietly sitting on gold and now realizes it can compete on an international level, and they do.
A friend recently told me he found wine from Terra Alta in his local shop in San Francisco, which was really cool to me. And I do think in a few years Terra Alta will be a household name, for the same reasons as today — that direct access to wineries, artisan producers, chefs, which make the experience so personal and memorable. With Tailored Tours, for example, we’ll take our guests to meet directly with the winemakers and their families, not the tourist department. And that access is what defines Terra Alta and its sense of place.”
