The Casa Iris Guide to Orbetello
O
rbetello is where Tuscan hills meet the sea — the dust turning to fine, golden sand. The sweet smell of grapevines and saffron wafts behind you here as you pull into the peninsula, the wind off the lagoon carrying the sticky scent of pines and salt.
You can’t really find this place unless you know where to look. Sitting small and inconspicuously between Florence and Rome on Italy’s Tyrrhenian coast, you could drive past Orbetello without a second glance. Maybe, you already have.
A small pedestrian town flanked by gold-sand beaches and two lagoons, Laguna di Ponente and Laguna di Levante, Orbetello itself is all about enjoying its surroundings — al fresco dining, relaxing swims, hidden pebble beaches and nature preserves. Here, they call that dolce far niente, which is more than just enjoying the sweet pleasure of nothing, but truly living the moment and enjoying your surroundings.
Upon first glance, Orbetello is quaint. Bougainvillea vines climb buildings, bikes with wicker baskets parked nearby. Potted plants topple over with colorful flowers. Nonna’s haggle in the forno. But don’t be deceived. An ancient trading post that’s been passed between the Romans and Italian royalty, Orbetello has a rich history that’s waiting to be uncovered. You just have to know where to look.
Casa Iris
An 16th-century palazzo turned b&b that boasts a treasure trove of Italian antiques, art-deco decor & shares a restoration team with the Sistine Chapel.
Casa Iris is one of those hidden gems from a golden age — now, polished up for the 21st-century. Formerly known as Palazzo Raveggi, the property dates back to the 16th-century and has actually been in the family of owner James Valeri, and now his husband, Matthew Adams, for the last hundred years.
Together, they refurbished the palace, breathing new life into it whilst creating a new one for themselves. Escaping the rat race of New York, Valeri saw an opportunity to go back to his roots, and Adams, who’s worked in the hospitality industry for decades, saw it as an exciting adventure. At the same time, both were looking forward to embracing a slower pace.
“This is actually where James’ father was born and grew up — and Iris is the name of his grandmother,” Adams told us. “We love the natural beauty of this area of Tuscany called La Maremma. The rolling farmland countryside comes right down to the seaside. It is a beautiful and peaceful place to be that has not really been discovered by foreigners. You will not find chain restaurants or big box stores here. It is, in a way, frozen in the past.”
The property
Dusty, pastel colored walls define the property — the 18th, 19th and 20th century frescos that Maria Rosaria Basileo and her renovation team painstakingly restored setting the tone. Using the scialbo technique, carefully scraping layers upon layers of paint, some walls and ceilings reveal breathtaking frescos, others beautifully old paint that creates a raw, textured finish. The bedrooms take on the names of the colors that adorn the walls — Acquamarina, Rosa and Celeste. With just three rooms, the property is small and intimate.
But, Casa Iris is also full of juxtaposition. There’s grandeur but not stuffiness, pairing world-class frescos with concrete and resin floors, and gold gilded mirrors and velvet furnishings with eclectic vintage pieces, mostly boasting an Art Nouveau flair.
The couple scavenged antique shops and markets across Bologna, Milan, Turin and Puglia to curate just the right collection of furniture and objects for Casa Iris— everything from the historically-correct 1600’s marble sinks to pieces from 20th century icons like Gio Ponti, Paolo Buffa, Carlo Ratti and Fontana Arte. Adams and Valeri even went so far as to have custom pieces commissioned that they just couldn’t find, like brass lights handmade in Rome.
Most importantly though, Casa Iris is a bed and breakfast, not a hotel. From the moment you arrive it feels like a home — like those stylish friends-of-friends you always gravitate to at dinner parties invited you to come by for the weekend. But at Casa Iris they don’t just open up their home, they invite you to take a bite out of life the way they do. That means embracing the local ethos of slowing down and taking the time to enjoy your surroundings, but also supporting kilometre zero food, only eating organic and sustainable local products. All of which, is evident in their guide to Orbetello.
After waking up in Casa Iris, what’s next?
Matthew Adams & James Valeri reveal their Orbetello
When is the best time to visit?
June or September are amazing! Very little traffic or tourists and the sea and weather are perfect.
The best way to get around?
A car is best to fully take advantage of some great nearby sites. But cycling is a great pastime and a good way to get to the beach.
Best spot for a morning espresso?
Bar Bagianni in the central piazza. Great place to see the town come to life as you relax with your coffee.
Where should we go for breakfast?
Ponente 13. The best breakfast in Orbetello. Lots of local and organic offerings, coupled with friendly service.
Describe the perfect day in Orbetello.
The perfect day here is a pretty lazy affair, honestly. We love a late start with a short walk around before grabbing a takeaway lunch of panini, fruit and snacks. Then off for a full day on a boat — slowly exploring the bays of Monte Argentario to find a quiet spot to drop anchor. After that, a short rest to refresh and then out to Baraka for an outstanding aperitivo and to Il Cantuccio for an epic Tuscan meal, both here in Orbetello.
Best activity?
The sea! Swimming, snorkeling and boating.
Favorite beach(es)?
Acqua Dolce or Le Viste. We prefer these rocky beaches, as they have beautiful crystal-clear waters. There are also plenty of nice sandy beaches, though.
Where should we go for the full Orbetello experience?
Orbetello is four streets wide, so Orbetello is the experience, all easily explored.
What shouldn’t we miss in Orbetello?
The restaurants we already mentioned, plus Ferrini for amazing fresh pastries. Orbetello's landmark is also an ancient windmill resting in the lagoon — this is always good for a sunset photo! Orbetello is also well known for its bottarga, or fish roe.
Any day trips you recommend?
Plenty, but a ferry ride over to the island of Giglio is fun, as is a day exploring the charming, hilltop medieval villages of the surrounding countryside. The thermal baths of Saturnia are stunning and unlike any natural formation we've ever seen.
The perfect long, lazy lunch?
La Capannuccia. It is an elegant beach-hut restaurant with great food and service. They also do an amazing aperitivo right on the sandy beach.
Or bakery if we’re taking lunch to-go?
Also Ponente 13.
Best terrace for an aperitivo?
Baraka.
Best dinner spot to dine on the catch of the day?
Per Piacere.
Where should we watch the sunset?
Aperitivo at the Hotel Torre Cala Piccola, just at the base of its historic tower, looking out on the sea on the backside of Monte Argentario.
Where can we find you both on a Friday night?
Baraka having drinks and seeing friends
How about Saturday afternoon?
On a boat, hopefully!
Are you willing to divulge a secret local spot?
There is a thing called a ‘sagra’ in Italy. It is a local, low-key sort-of food festival, always reflecting an ingredient or dish that is popular in the area. You have to hunt to find them. But, about midway up Monte Argentario, there is what feels like a permanent sagra hidden away, called Ristoro La Sorgente. We do not send guests there because it is beyond casual. You are at picnic tables nestled in the forest, eating the best things that can come off of a grill, delivered to you in paper containers. Delicious, and a great way to cool off after a hot Tuscan day.
Map by our contributing illustrator, Bea Villasuso.
